Opah!

When I studied at the University of Bonn in Germany (many years ago), I lived in an apartment building that housed a number of international students. Two of my friends (and neighbors) were from Greece. On Sunday afternoons, Jorgos and Alexandros used to cook wonderful meals to remind themselves of home – and I was lucky because they would often share them with me. Because of my two pals, I developed a real fondness for Greek cuisine. But I never really learned anything about Greek wines. That’s why this e-mail from Chef Ric Orlando from New World Home Cooking in Saugerties made me take notice.

“The Chef’s Having Fun Spring Wine Dinner Season’s Last Event: All About Greek Wine and a New World Global Pairing Menu.”

Yum!

The dinner starts at 6:30 p.m. Thursday (May 3) and will feature Sophia and George Perpera, owners of AllAboutGreekWine.com, and Michael Weiss, (Culinary Institute of America wine instructor and Hudson Valley Connoisseur magazine’s wines columnist.)

“In this dinner, instead of creating a Traditional or Neo- Greek menu, I chose to do what I do best— designed a global menu to pair with the Greek Wines,” Ric says. “In this manner you can truly appreciate the food friendliness and simpatico nature of the wines. I love these wines with my food! Note that I had to honor the Greek Mezze in course one, however!”

Wines and Menu

Spiropoulos Mantinia
Old World Pikilia Plate of Taramosalata, Melitzanosalata,
Feta Tzatziki with grilled pita

Pavlidis White
Thai style fried soft shell crab, cucumber noodles, Thai basil, coconut smoothie, peanut sauce

Boutari Kallisti
Fricassee of Langoustines and Lamb Sweetbreads, Morels, Leeks (or local ramps if they are in yet) and Spring Peas

Boutari Evinos
Slow and Low Roasted Duck, Potato Torta, Piquillio Pepper, Roasted Garlic, Ripe Olive sauce, parsley salad

Boutari Grand Reserve
El Norte Rubbed and Grilled Lamb, “Slang Jang” relish, hemp nut tortilla, and three chile salsa

Emery Efreni
Primarily Goat Cheese Cake, pistachio foam and grilled muscat grapes

Dinner is $65 plus tax and gratuity.
Reservations are required
Call 845-246-0900

Bang the drum*

OK, I’ve already bought our tickets for this so now I can help spread the word. Unison Arts in New Paltz presents Portland Taiko, traditional Japanese Drumming, 8 p.m. Saturday at SUNY New Paltz’s Studley Theater.

Traditional Japanese drums, from the size of a dinner plate to 300 pounds, are used in a performance that unites music, dance, and martial arts. Check out the videos of the performers. We're going with friends to make an evening of it, from kids to the grownup folks. It’s going to rock!

But do we do sushi beforehand?

(*with apologies to Todd Rundgren, who also rocks.)

Silver works

More on silver jewelry in the region ...

Last June we featured two artisans in Hudson Valley Connoisseur who create incredible silver jewelry. It's worth taking another look at them.

Kate Rogovin's background as an artist and industrial textile designer interconnects with the know-how she inherited from her silversmith father to create the unique Interweave Collection pieces available at Concentric Gallery in Beacon. Hand woven on antique looms, Kate's mesh bracelets and neckpieces incorporate fine silver and gold threads.

Rick Cameron found his true calling as designer and owner of Cameron Design fine limited jewelry in Woodstock. Many of his designs are influenced by his love of wildlife and his fascination with mythology, The "black sterling" and "steel gray" surfaces on some of his pieces were developed in his Manhattan workshop. I especially crave his black sterling panther with ruby eyes bracelet, shown above.

And this is just for Friday ...

Whew, I'm going to be soooo busy this weekend ...

It's almost a shame that we're already booked for the American Girl party on Friday evening at Barnes & Noble because the Bard College Conservatory of Music is presenting what I'm sure will be a wonderful vocal recital in the Sosnoff Theater at Fisher Center. Works include those from Debussy, Ravel, Robert Schumann (a personal favorite), and Brahmns.

Fisher Center is such a great venue. Not only do they have a world-class lineup of entertainment, the Frank Gehry-designed center also is a fabulous building.

I took my then 7-year-old daughter to the Fisher Center last summer to see the Donna Uchizono Company. She was enthralled, especially when special guest dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov performed. (She recognized him as the lead in her had-it-since-a-baby video of The Nutcracker.) Baryshnikov may be in his mid-50s now but he still has compelling stage presence.

Full plate

It's going to be a great week coming up if you're into local, seasonal, and adventurous eating. I'm going to share a few events in separate posts.

Terrapin Restaurant in Rhinebeck is presenting Farm to Table: A Spring Slow Food Dinner featuring local seasonal foods, on Friday, May 4th at 6:30 p.m. I'll be there! :-) The menu includes:

Sky Farm Asian greens with roasted baby beets and fiddleheads, wasabi vinaigrette

Asparagus, ramp and morel soup

Crispy roasted half chicken with Millbrook Vineyards Tocai beurre blanc, spring peas and fingerling potatoes
OR
Highland Farm venison medallions with a Clinton Vineyards cassis demi-glace, braised greens and mashed potatoes
(vegetarian option available)

Red currant-goat cheese parfait

$49/person ($39 for Slow Food members) not inclusive of beverage, tax or gratuity. A portion of the proceeds from this dinner will be donated to Slow Food Hudson Valley (of which I am a volunteer co-leader.) The dinner may take place at Terrapin's new catering facility at the golf course in Staatsburg, depending on the size of the crowd. RSVP by calling the restaurant at 845-876-3330.

PS The snail is the Slow Food logo.

More things I can't do without ...

A real burger, grilled at home. Preferably one made with local beef from one of the farmers in the Valley Farmers Cooperative or from Fleishers Grass-Fed & Organic meat store on John Street in Kingston. Even if there wasn't such a taste difference -- buying local is the best.

And the Stone Church Farm roast chicken dish (local chickens) served at the Village TeaRoom in New Paltz is about as good as a meal can get. If you stop in, say hi to chef-owner Agnes for me!

¡Que Rico!

Want to learn how to prepare authentic and healthy Mexican cuisine from Tom Griffiths, who writes the Entrée Vous column in Hudson Valley Connoisseur? Tom tells me he'll be teaching a hands-on cooking class this summer at the Omega Institute in Rhinebeck.

Flavor of Mexico takes place July 13-15. Through lectures, demonstrations, and hands-on cooking in Omega’s special teaching kitchen, you will learn to prepare simple, healthy, and tasty dishes based on classical and contemporary Mexican cuisine. There's limited enrollment. Tuition is $395 (and doesn't include housing).

This sounds like a great opportunity for those who want to improve their cooking skills with a real master. Tom is a well-respected Certified Master Chef (CMC) who has worked at several renowned establishments, including the United Nations, Le Delices Côte Basque, Regine’s, and Le Cirque. He's also a nice person. A 1980 honors graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, he now is Associate Dean for Curriculum and Instruction for Culinary Arts there.

Jewelry makes us feel special

I adore silver jewelry and wear it almost exclusively. (We featured some great silver jewelry made locally in the June 2006 issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur.)

That's why I paid special attention when a reader from Hurley sent this response to my question, "what makes you feel special?"

Judy wrote: "I think jewelry makes every woman feel special. And I make that special piece that every woman craves! Check out my website for one of a kind hand-woven beaded jewelry...."

Judy's Jewels


So I did (check out her site) and I especially liked this silver-and-black piece. Nice work!

Judy -- do you ever sell at any crafts shows in the area? Anyone else have any recommendations for locally produced silver jewelry?

Cat's meow

What's better than ice cream? Ice cream in my cat bowl from Westcote Bell Pottery & Studios in High Falls. A great design – and definitely not a bowl for cats!

It's the cat's meow!

More good things ...

Scenic walks in the Hudson Valley.
From Poet’s Walk Park in Red Hook, to Burger Hill in Rhinebeck, to the Mohonk and Minnewaska Preserves, all the local rail-trails and even Waryas Park in the city of Poughkeepsie, I love exploring the region by foot, as often as I can. Most of the time I bring along my daughter (that's us at right) and the Big Dog, and my hiking buddy, the guy who takes my photos. :-)

Where are your favorite walks?

Those Things (I Can’t Do Without)

In an upcoming issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur, we’re taking a look at comfort foods, and why they make us happy. That got me thinking about happiness in general – and my happiness in particular.

I’m talking about strictly material (and perhaps somewhat superficial) stuff here. Of course, the health, comfort and company of my family and other loved ones takes precedent over any material things. But assuming my (and their) basic needs are taken care of, here’s some of what makes me feel happy and pampered.

Wearing the perfect black dress. I have two – the winter dress and the summer dress. I can dress them up or dress them down. And I’ll cry on the day they wear out or —horrors— no longer fit. Do men have an equivalent piece of clothing that does it for them?

Fresh flowers. No run-of-the-mill, chilled and imported from South America roses that are sold at the corner stop-for-milk-and-gas-spot for me. I like flowers that don't travel far. My favorites this time of year are the locally grown-under-glass anemones. I like to pick them up on weekends from Ralph Pitcher & Sons farm, 41 Pitcher Road, Rhinebeck. F.W. Battenfeld & Son’s on Route 199 in Red Hook also sells them at the farm. These are elegant, vibrant flowers. I even put them on the cover of the April issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur. (It's up there, on the side.) Know of other farmstands that sell great flowers in season?

Cherry and pignoli biscotti from Gigi’s Market, 223 Pitcher Lane, Red Hook. They don’t bake that flavor combo all that often and when they do, it sells out fast. Hmm, maybe I shouldn’t have shared that. Save some for me! I’d love to hear your bakery recommendations.

A really good pedicure. My favorite pedicure place is in southern California and I’m still looking for a special salon here in the valley. Any suggestions?

Heated car seats. Once you have them, it’s really hard to go without – the Hudson Valley can get pretty darn cold during the winter (and they even come in handy on damp summer evenings.) What little extras do you need in your car?

What do you need to make you feel special? To brighten your day? You can e-mail it to me at lcoons@hvcmagazine.com or post it here. More of my list tomorrow ...

Give a Monkey a Laptop ...

I am such a novice golfer.

But having been an avid tennis player for most of my life (until a hamstring injury sidelined me a few years ago) I can understand the passion people have for their favorite sport. In the April issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur, we were lucky to find a great editorial-design team to take a look at the "most distinguished" golfing holes in the region. Writer Theresa Keegan and illustrator Sten Miller both admit they have a big passion for golf, and it shows in the exceptionally fine, creative and entertaining article they turned out.

By the way, the sum of my golfing experience? I took a few lessons in college. In the 1960s, renowned golf architect Robert Trent Jones (who married Wells alumna Ione Davis Jones ‘31) had redesigned several of the college's golf course holes. By the time I came to study at Wells, learning golf had become a college tradition.

I'd actually forgotten the rest of this story until my former college roommate reminded me recently. We were taking the college golf lessons together and we were soooo bad. Just pathetic -- so much so that I gave up trying at one point and just decided to be silly and swing the club hard. And I got a hole-in-one, and won a shirt. It was the golfing equivalent of "give a monkey a typewriter and one day he might type out Shakespeare." And right there, I decided to end my golfing experience -- at the top. Sort of. :-)

Words

Having spent my career working with words, I really appreciate people who have a way with them. Matthew Spireng is one of those people. I've known Matt for many years. He's a wonderful poet, and I regret that my schedule and his readings are rarely compatible. The last time I heard Matt read his work was in September 2006, during a program sponsored by Scenic Hudson at Poet's Walk Park in Red Hook. The beautiful setting was the perfect place to hear his elegant, nature-inspired poetry.

So I was delighted to hear I have another opportunity, this time in Greene County. Here are the details:

Poetry reading by Alan Catlin and Matthew J. Spireng
open mike following
Saturday, April 21st, 2 p.m.
Athens Cultural Center
24 Second Street
Athens, New York 12015
Suggested donation $3
Hosted by Bob Wright
For more information, call 518-444-4561
Driving directions at bottom of post.

Also, Matt has a new chapbook coming out. The poems in Young Farmer are loosely based on the life of his father as a young farmer in the 1930s and early 1940s. R.H.W. Dillards says of Young Farmer: “Matthew Spireng’s Young Farmer is the clear-eyed poetic equivalent of the paintings of Grant Wood, Thomas Hart Benton, and Andrew Wyeth. Moving from love to loss, from youthful dreams to the realities of a life of hard scrabble and hard luck, these poems, written with an elegant simplicity, form an elegy to the disappearing world of the small farmer and at the same time a celebration of the individual human spirit.”

Spireng's full-length book manuscript Out of Body won the 2004 Bluestem Poetry Award and was published in 2006 by Bluestem Press at Emporia State University. Previous chapbooks were Encounters, 2005, by Finishing Line Press; Inspiration Point, 2002, the winner of the 2000 Bright Hill Press Poetry Chapbook Competition; and Just This, 2003, by Hampden-Sydney College. The title poem of Inspiration Point refers to the lookout by the same name on the escarpment in Greene County.

Spireng's individual poems have won two national awards and been recognized in numerous other national contests. He has also received two Pushchart Prize nominations. Since 1990 nearly 500 of his poems have appeared in publications across the United States, including The American Scholar, Yankee Magazine, Southern Humanities Review, Alaska Quarterly Review, English Journal, and Louisiana Literature. He is also an award-winning journalist.

Spireng lives in Lomontville in Ulster County in the house in which he was raised on the wooded acreage left from the family farm.

Alan Catlin has been publishing in the "little and not-so-little" magazines and journals since the middle 70's, primarily as a poet. Up till now he has been published in hundreds of places, amassing enough file cards representing published work to fill two and half file card boxes.

His first chapbook appeared in 1980, and dozens have followed in the last twenty-five years. Three of those were winners of national competitions. A fourth was first runner-up and was also printed. Another dozen or so have been finalists in competitions over the years. In addition to the many chapbooks, he has four full-length books to his credit, ranging from the now-long-out-of-print Animal Acts, which was hailed as the “Most Neglected Book of 1984” by legendary Wormwood Review editor Marvin Malone. A collaboration with Paul Weinman called Barred on Both Sides received that same accolade several years later. More recent books include Drunk and Disorderly, from Pavement Saw Press; The Schenectady Chainsaw Massacre, from Staplegun Press; and Playing Tennis with Antonioni, from March Street Press, which also published his chapbook Stop Making Sense.

Over the years his work has received 17 Pushcart prize nominations—13 for poetry, and four for fiction. Although he does not write science-fiction poetry per se, he has received three Rhysling Award nominations for best science-fiction poems of the year. Book manuscripts of his have been finalists in several national competitions, including those for The Brittingham Award (University of Wisconsin Press), The Lena Miles Wever Award (Pleiades Press/LSU Press), and the Quercus Review Press. He has also published reviews, over a hundred short stories, and had a column named after his submission to William Safire's On Language column in the New York Times. Stories of his have been in Slipstream and The Literary Review and have made regular appearances in the irregular NYC magazine, Happy, once ranked 13 in the market for short stories by Writer's Digest.

Currently he is working on another volume in his Killer Drink series five of which have been published and a sixth accepted. He is also at work on an extended sequence of self-portraits with artists, which may or may not be actual self portraits. Last year he wrote the first volume of a fictional memoir about his years spent in hotel and restaurant management, called Chaos Management. The second volume of memoirs will contain linked stories all of which are set in the same three hours, in a bar, over a number of years; it is titled Hours of Happiness. He is currently enjoying his recent retirement from the unchosen profession of barman.

Young Farmer, available from Finishing Line Press.


There are two ways to order Matt's new book, if you want a copy: snail mail or going to their Web site. The book is Young Farmer by Matthew J. Spireng and if they receive the order before May 9 is $12 per copy. There is no shipping charge before May 9. After that it's $2 per book for shipping.
The Web site is www.finishinglinepress.com. It's in a section called "new releases."
To order by mail, send a check or money order to:
Finishing Line Press
PO Box 1626
Georgetown, KY 40324

Directions
The Athens Cultural Center is located in the center of the historic village, a block from the Hudson River, at the intersection of Second Street and Washington Street (Route 385).
From the West Bank of the Hudson River, the Center can be reached on exit 21 of the New York State Thruway. Follow Route 23 East towards the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. Directly before the bridge, take Route 385 North into the village of Athens. Route 385 becomes Washington Street. The Center is located one half block west of Washington Street on Second Street.

American Girl

I've given in.

And now I'm going to be making arrangements to bring my daughter to spend a day at American Girl Place in New York City. Chances are, if you know a girl between the ages of 6 and 16 (+), you know about American Girl, the dolls that are based on historical characters with accompanying books and films, and matching clothes for your child. And lots and lots of accessories for the dolls. They're not inexpensive, but it is a quality product.

The dolls are really popular in my daughter's school. She loves hers and has been asking to visit American Girl Place since last fall. (I gave her the doll Jess last year and Josefina and Samantha were generous hand-me-downs from the teen-age daughter of my friend.)

Actually, I have warm feelings towards American Girl because the company was created in 1986 by Pleasant T. Rowland, with whom I share an alma mater, Wells College. She's been very generous to the school over the years. (I'm guessing American Girl, which was acquired by Mattel in 1998, has been very generous to her.)

There are lots of activities at American Girl Place, a cafe, and some very interesting "Mom and Me" type events. This class looks like fun: Mom-Daughter Cooking Class: Decorating Desserts with Flair. Learn to decorate cakes with fancy flower petals made from marshmallows, create edible doll-sized daisies, and much more.

Has anyone here visited American Girl Place (or taken a cooking class with your kid)? Please feel free to share stories or your advice for my AGP visit.

Singing to the Trees

Received this e-mail from Elizabeth Ryan, who owns Breezy Hill Orchards in the town of Clinton. Some of you might know her from the local farmers markets or the New York Greenmarket, or from her wonderful handcrafted ciders, or even from her appearances on Martha Stewart's show and Lifetime. Sounds like this will be great fun!

It's that time again, time to celebrate spring and sing to the apple trees, celebrate djurdjevdan and feast in style at the 10th annual Breezy Hill Orchard Wassail!!!! April 28.

This year's gathering will be extra special as we pay tribute to Bob and Alice Messerich, longtime and legendary egg farmers eggstrordinare (sorry), with their incredible free range, hormone- and antibiotic-free vegetarian hens. Please come and join us.

Zlatne Uste, our great Balkan brass band, Romski Boji Seido Salifovski and his Macedonian Rom colleagues and a few more friends will perform throughout the day and night. Drum workshop with Seido at 2, dance workshop at 3, children's wassail and music at 5, and feasting and dancing until late in the night at our beautiful Hudson Valley Orchard near Rhinebeck. A really Slow meal with wonderful local foods and wines, artisanal Hudson Valley foods, on our very working farm.

The usual bonfire and torchlight procession into the orchard. Unlimited camping available and breakfast in the a.m., lots of scholarships, kid and student pricing, $50.00 for the whole event if you are an adult, kids under 6 free, kids under 14 $12.00. No one turned away, large family discounts. Call 845-266-3979 or email ciderdraft@aol.com. Information from last year still posted on our hopelessly outdated website, and the directions do work.

Lots of news to share. (Yes, we are buying the chicken and free-range egg farm down the road from us, yes it is the last egg farm in our county, yes it is exciting and overwhelming.)

cheers!!

elizabeth (MB) Ryan

April 28, 2007
Dinner/dance/wassailing at Breezy Hill Orchard
828 Centre Road in Staatsburg, NY, 12580
Info: ciderdraft@aol.com reservations 845-266-3979

Onions: Déjà vu

I read in the Poughkeepsie Journal today that The Wallkill Valley Land Trust is celebrating having saved the Jewett and Huguenot Street farms in New Paltz from development, and it reminded me of onions, Ferrán Adrià (see my Gerbil Meatballs post) and something that happened last fall when I was in Italy.

Lani Raider, who co-leads Slow Food Hudson Valley with me, is a CIA professor who was invited to speak at Slow Food's international conference, Terre Madre, in Turin, Italy last fall. Before an audience of hundreds of the world's top chefs and food producers, she described how she brings her students to area farms so they can make that connection to the folks who grow the food. She hopes her students will develop a respect for farmers and strengthen the farm-food ties when they become chefs. During her talk, she showed a Powerpoint of some of her students planting onions at Huguenot Street Farm in New Paltz.

She had set up her Powerpoint ahead of time, and while everyone was waiting for the talk to start, star chefs Alain Ducasse and Ferrán Adrià came on stage to say hello to Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini. My companion took a photo of the three men together -- a gathering of three of the most important people in the food world today. And displayed on the screen over their heads? The Powerpoint of onion planting at Huguenot Street Farm!

(Which also reminds me that we have the onion chopping demo at the HVC magazine web site. Life is just so connected.)

From left, that's Petrini, Adrià and Ducasse. Photo copyright 2006 by Joe Bostian, used with permission.

Kids – and other farm babies

Speaking of things to do with the kids this weekend – if you feel like taking a short day trip to a wonderfully scenic area, you’ll find baby lambs, piglets, goats, and calves at Hancock Shaker Village on Route 20 in Pittsfield, Massachusetts. (It’s about 3 miles from the Columbia County border.)

Children (and adults!) can learn about Shaker heritage breeds and even lend a hand with farm chores at the 1826 Round Stone Barn. (They might even learn a bit about local history.) Through April 22, from 10 a.m.– 4 p.m.

And since you’ll be in the area anyway, you might want to swing over to Lenox, Massachusetts to buy some exquisite CHOCOLATE at Chocolate Springs Café. The chef, Joshua Needleman, was named one of Saveur magazine’s Top 10 star chocolatiers for 2006 and lectures on chocolate’s health benefits at noted Berkshires locations such as Kripalu, Canyon Ranch and Cranwell Resort and Spa. (I first met Joshua at the Totally Fermented festival at Sprout Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie in April 2004, a daylong celebration of foods including wine, beer, cheese, bread -- and chocolate! We profiled him in the February issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur.) Yum!

Kid Stuff

“When is the Kids Expo?"

That’s what my daughter has been asking me since last December. She loves the Kids Expo in Poughkeepsie. In the past, she’s most enjoyed the music and dancing, the fun science exploration activities offered by IBM and especially – getting all the free stuff that’s handed out in the Mid-Hudson Civic Center. (What is it about kids and free stuff?)

Well, Kids Expo takes place this weekend (in downtown Poughkeepsie) and we’ll be there, as usual. We make a day of it, usually ending up at the Mid-Hudson Children’s Museum in the afternoon. She also loves the museum (we even held her birthday party there). We've visited children's museums around the country, but the one in our home region is our favorite!

Speaking of the Children’s Museum, they’re offering a great lineup of family concerts this spring, with traditional singers and musicians from a variety of regional ethnic cultures. All are free and all begin at 4 p.m. Here’s the schedule: April 21: Traditional Native American song and drumming with the Cloudbreakers Society and Red Feather Singers (Intertribal Association of Native Americans of the Hudson Valley). May 19: Traditional and contemporary African-American gospel music with veteran gospel singers and musicians in the Hudson Valley's Spirit of Unity Gospel Ensemble. June 16: Traditional songs and dance music of the Andes by the multi-instrumental Ecuadorian band IntiAndino. July 21: Folk songs and folk music of Puerto Rico by Ron Figueroa and Friends.

Iron Chef Hudson Valley

The whole Iron Chef thing has me thinking about local chefs who I’d like to see compete on the Food Network show. Ric Orlando of New World Home Cooking in Woodstock is a given – not only is his food delicious but he has a big personality and his PBS show has demonstrated that he has great TV presence. John Novi of Dupuy Canal House in High Falls would also be great – his food is innovative and exciting, and he can rightly be considered the “dean” of Hudson Valley cuisine.

Jeff Raider, executive chef at Valley Restaurant in Garrison, is another chef I’d like to see on the Food Network, although he’s (modestly) told me in the past that he likes it just fine back in the kitchen. His food has won rave reviews from The New York Times, Esquire and the like ... and he showed a nice rapport with the crowd during a demo last fall at the St. Francis Hospital benefit Taste of the Hudson Valley. (The chef is not a bad writer either – his essay about oysters and recipe for oyster chowder were part of Hudson Valley Connoisseur’s October 2006 issue.)

Which chef from the region do you think should appear on Iron Chef America?

Iron Chef ... under wraps

Speaking of Iron Chef America … a Hudson Valley chef, Peter X. Kelly, battled it out with Iron Chef Bobby Flay in a Food Network show that will air later this spring. Liz Johnson, food editor at The Journal News in Westchester, has more about that on her blog.

Of course, all the real details (like who won and especially, the secret ingredient) have to stay under wraps until the show airs. I’m sure it’s going to be difficult for the chef to stay quiet until then. A few years ago I traveled to Old San Juan, Puerto Rico to write an article about the food scene. My stops included the acclaimed Nuevo Latino seafood restaurant Aguaviva, one of three places on the island that were headed by the energetic up-and-coming chef Roberto Trevino. On the night that I was there, Trevino had just returned from facing Mario Batali on Iron Chef America, and I could tell just how hard it was for him not to share all the juicy details! His staff was promoting the show with postcards on each table but he couldn't answer any questions posed by his customers. It didn’t affect his expertise in the kitchen, however. I enjoyed an excellent meal at Aguaviva, including the best fresh pineapple mojito and a sampler of ceviches (citrus marinated seafood salads) that showed not only the chef’s expertise but also the advantage of eating seafood on an island – it was so fresh!

Gerbil Meatballs

It was fun to see Dr. Tim Ryan, president of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, serve as a judge on an Iron Chef America show that aired over the weekend. He was entertaining-- especially his comment (a joke) about the texture of gerbil! (No, they didn't really prepare gerbil. It was a joke!)

The Food Network show pitted Iron Chef Bobby Flay against Spanish chef José Andrés (Cafe Atlantico, Jaleo, Zaytinya, Minibar by Jose Andres, Oyamel restaurants.) During the episode, Andrés prepared some dishes that looked amazing, using foams and smoke. I'd love to eat in his kitchen someday. Andrés trained at restaurant El Bulli in Spain with Chef Ferrán Adrià, who is arguably the most lauded chef in the world today. (I saw Adrià at the Terre Madre conference in Italy last year, and he got quite the "rock-star" treatment.)

And did you know, Andrés has a quasi-local connection? He was the chairman of "Spain and the World Table," the prestigious Worlds of Flavor international food conference held in 2006 at the Culinary's Greystone campus in California's Napa Valley.

Cutting Edge

Want to learn a great way to chop an onion?

In the April issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur, we explore really good kitchen knives-- the kinds of knives that we buy as a treat to ourselves (when we reach that point in life where we can do such things.) Having the right knife, like any tool, makes working in the kitchen more enjoyable and also more productive. For the photos that illustrated our article, we visited two local shops that specialize in very good knives: The Kitchen Drawer, 4068 Albany Post Road, Hyde Park, 845-229-2300 and Warren Kitchen & Cutlery, 6934 Route 9, Rhinebeck, 845-876-6208

Oh, and that super onion-chopping method? Article author Theresa J. Marquez, a CIA-trained chef, demonstrates it in a short video on the HVC magazine Web site. Enjoy!

Gift for a Princess

I was raised to always bring a hostess/host gift when visiting someone's home, and I don't think the rules of etiquette have changed much over the years.

It's actually kind of fun finding creative yet appropriate gifts in the Hudson Valley, mostly because of the wonderful artisan food producers in the region. I believe that bringing a gift of wine or food is fine as long as the giver doesn't expect the hosts to make it a part of the evening's meal. Ideally, the gift should be something that the hosts can enjoy on their own.

Last year when I was at the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival Grand Reserve Tasting, my friend and I shared the cost of a case of one of our favorite wines from Cascade Mountain Winery. I tucked away my bottles and have been bringing them out as hostess/host gifts. (It's also a fun way to introduce friends to wines from the Hudson Valley.) I pick up bottles of organic maple syrup and local honey at farmers market, Clinton Vineyards cassis and jams and jellies from local farms -- all of which make wonderful gifts.

And unless your hosts have a dietary restriction, chocolate always makes a fine present. (I'd surely be happy with a gift of chocolate -- anytime, anyplace!) Earlier this year I was amazed when I tasted the chocolates made by Oliver Kita in Rhinebeck. (We featured the work of Oliver and two other of the region's finest chocolatiers in the February issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur.) Oliver's chocolates reminded me of the incredibly fine confections I'd enjoyed while visiting Turin (Torino) Italy last year, and I can buy them close to home!

I went to Italy for Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre, Slow Food's international food conference last fall. While there, I had the pleasure to meet cookbook author Marlena Spieler and her absolutely delightful husband Alan. Among other things, they shared a colorful account of their trip from their home in England to Turin by train, which included a ride through the Alps. (I see she's just posted her own blog account of that trip!) My companion and I had flown into Turin from Brussels over the Alps, which was in itself a spectacular experience. After hearing Marlena and Alan's account, now I dream to someday also travel through the Alps by railroad.

On one of our last days in Turin, we ran into Alan as Marlena was shopping -- she had been invited to visit an Italian princess at her Turin apartment and was going to cook dinner there. (Marlena apparently enjoys even more of The Good Life than yours truly.) They invited us to join them, and I still regret that our schedule didn't allow it.

Hmm, what would one bring as a hostess gift to a princess in Italy?

Power Couple

Jennifer Axinn-Weiss creates Gourmet Giggles (a clever cartoon that runs in each issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur magazine). Not only is Jen a creative and insightful cartoonist, she’s also a talented artist. Her solo art exhibition, Tools for Detecting Angel Wings, runs through April 27 at Montgomery Row in Rhinebeck.

Jen’s husband, Michael Weiss, is Hudson Valley Connoisseur’s wine columnist. It’s been a good year so far for the couple. Last month, Michael was honored by the European Wine Council as Wine Educator of the Year for 2007. It’s an honor he shared with Steven Kolpan, his colleague at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, during an event at Le Cirque in New York City. Both men are CIA professors in wine studies.

Photo provided by Jennifer Axinn-Weiss

The In Crowd

Tom Griffiths, Hudson Valley Connoisseur’s food columnist (and a well-known chef who teaches at the CIA) tells me he tried to eat at The Artist’s Palate in the city of Poughkeepsie on Saturday evening and “couldn’t get near the place.” I'm happy that they're so popular but I guess that means I'm going to have to start calling for reservations. I’ve eaten there several times and thoroughly enjoyed myself.

I had dinner last night at Gigi Trattoria in Rhinebeck. Gnocchi, grilled asparagus, strawberry-rhubarb tart: A simple, well-prepared meal that said, “spring’s here!” Shared a bottle of Peter Zemmer Pinot Nero, a delicate Italian red wine. Now, I have found a bunch of Hudson Valley wines that I really like but I wouldn't ever be able to totally give up Italian reds -- or German Rieslings -- for a 100-Mile Diet ... (see my post yesterday about the 100-Mile Diet.)

High Notes

Last weekend I finally got to visit the American Museum of Natural History’s Gold exhibit, which offers a fascinating exploration of the precious metal’s role in human history. Well worth checking out. (And be sure to walk into the little room they have wallpapered with gold leaf.)

Living in the Hudson Valley, it’s easy to get away for the day and enjoy all the wonderful cultural opportunities in New York City. Maybe it’s the easy access, but I never really thought about treating myself to a weekend stay there. That is, before last weekend. (Sure, I’d stayed at friends' apartments in Manhattan but this was something really special.) So I stayed at a nice hotel between Central Park and Columbus Avenue and right across from the museum. What a treat!

It was a musical weekend. The Allman Brothers Band at the Beacon on Friday night was loads and loads of fun. On Saturday night we really hit the high notes by going to Birdland to see the sublime jazz trumpeter Charles Tolliver and his Quintet. Wow. Wynton Marsalis was at Lincoln Center the same night but I think we saw the same caliber performance AND sat six feet away from the stage. Not only were Tolliver and his band RIGHT ON all night, but the venue was perfect. Great food (Southern fried chicken and greens to die for, paired with artisanal hard cider), excellent service and super ambience.

I see Birdland is hosting a BossaBrasil Festival from April 17 through April 21. I’m a big fan of the music of Brazil, so it looks like a return trip might be in the stars … Anyone know of valley venues featuring Brazilian music? Please share!

12-course Meal

Speaking of local, seasonal food ...

I had the very good fortune to be invited to the 2007 Tastemakers Dinner at Bezalel Gables Fine Catering & Events, an elegant inn in Chatham owned by Chef David James Robinson. David is a big advocate for local, seasonal foods and his very creative menu reflected that. Many of the items he served contained ingredients that he and his staff had preserved last summer.

The 12-course menu -- and the company -- were delightful. My dining partners included Jan Hanvik, executive director of the Columbia County Council on the Arts and choreographer Mark DeGarmo. (There's a photo of them in the Scene section of the latest HVC magazine.)

Here's the menu:

TASTEMAKERS’ DINNER 2007
Using the Best Seasonal Ingredients

Cocktails: (7:00 pm)

“You Can’t Get Blood from a Melon”
Cantelope Vodka Martini with a Squeeze of Blood Orange
Garnished with a Round of Blood Orange


“The Tastemakers’ Brazillian Red”
Pomegranate with Cachaçha
Garnished with a Kumquat

Rose Puchong Iced Tea
Garnished with Dried Rose Buds

Hors D’oeuvres

Butlered Hors D’oeuvres

Triangle Terrine of Beet and Orange on our Homemade Crackers

Miniature “Meatloaf” Baked with Chunks of Diced Apple and an Apple Glaze

Fresh Tuna Pastrami
Served on unusual Skewers

Cream of Chestnut and Coconut Soup with Madiera
Served in Shot Glasses with Handles

Oyster, Cremini and Shiitake Mushroom, Prosciutto and Blue Cheese Bruschetta

Petite Yorkshire Puddings Topped with Roast Beef and Horseradish Sauce
Miniature Popover Size

Handheld Caesar Salad

Supper (8:00)

Lemon & Rosemary Fingertip Towels Passed to Each Guest

Wine and Beverage Service

Nantucket Coolers of Ice Water with Slices of Cucumber

Bottles of Saratoga Sparkling Water

Bread Baskets: A variety of Artisan Breads, including:
Our Small Hot Potato Loaves
Rolls Baked with Diced Prosciutto
Classic Quick Bread Sticks in Red and Orange

Condiments: Port Wine and Shallot Compound Butter; Cognac Butter; Kidney Bean Purée


WHITE WINE SERVICE: Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York

Amuse Bouche:

Paté of Duck Breast Stuffed in Dried Plums Soaked in Armanac Sprinkled with Red Pistachio
Served on Tiny White Square Plates

Course I -- Pasta:

Tomato and Carrot Pillows of Homemade Pumpkin Ravioli with a Sage Sauce, Garnished with Chopped Italian Parsley
Served on Square White Plates

Course II -- Salad:

Salad Puffs filled with Nouvelle Waldorf Salad:
Red Apples with Skins on, Celery and Golden Raisins and Walnuts with Red Lettuce
Traditional Dressing (on the side)
Served on Ruby Glass Plates


Course III – Poultry:

Pheasant Pot Pies, with Local Chanterelles, Morels, Vegetables and Corn
Served in Miniature Casserole Dishes

Course IV -- Soup:

Carrot/Tangerine Soup
with Diced Beet Garnish
Served in Cosmo Glasses

BEER SERVICE: Debut of Chatham Brewery Porter

Course V -- Lamb:

Rack of Lamb Roasted with Mint Pesto with Savory Mint Merengues
On a Bed of Crimson Lentils with Herbes de Provence
Served on Ruby Plates

Course VI -- Shellfish:

“Sea Foam: Conch, Orange and Lime Mousse Garnished with Trout Roe and Beet and Saffron Caviar
with Shrimp Chip and Poached Shrimp in Ice Orange-Juice Shot Glass on a Round of Blood Orange
Served on a Clear Glass Swirl Plate

RED WINE SERVICE: Lamoreaux Landing from New York’s Finger Lakes’ Region

Course VII -- Beef:

Short Ribs Braised in Brooklyn Chocolate Stout with Aromatic Vegetables, including Jicama
Served in Small Ruby Bowls

Course VIII -- Seafood:

Skate in Burre Noisette with Champagne Gelée
Small Cherry Peppers from Holmquest Farm stuffed with Breaded, Herbed and Baked Chêvre from Rawson Brook Farm
Platinum-Banded China

Course IX -- Pork:

Roasted Pork Tenderloin Encrusted with Hazelnut Paste and Unsweetened Cocoa

“Beets Wellington” Beets in Filo with Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Ricotta
Small Ruby Plates

Intermezzo-Sorbet Course X: (in coupiers)

Tomato Sorbet with Holmquest Farms Heirloom Tomatoes
Pear Yellow and Red Tomato Garnish “Flowers”
Served in Coupier

WINE SERVICE: “Duet” Rhubarb and Strawberry Wine for Clinton Vineyards, Clinton Corners, New York Served in “Tilted” Double Shot Glasses. OR Pomegranate Juice

Cheese Course XI:

Parfait of Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Ewe’s Blue Rice Pudding Layered with 5-Apple Apple Sauce and Crispy Gingerbread “B” Cookie
Served in Martini Glasses

CHAMPAGNE SERVICE: Clinton Vineyards’ Peach Gala; Peche Bubbly. Or Ginger ale.

Desserts XII:

Mignardis Trays:
Served on Shell Trays

Lemon Cookies with Red Glaze, Dusted with Black Sugar

Morello Cherry Crème in Chocolate Cups

White Chocolate Cheesecakes Topped with Strawberry Sauce in WonTon Spoons

Ice Cream Cones with Orange-Chocolate Cake Inside, Orange Butter Cream and Red Jimmies

Cones of Miniature Cotton Candy

Red Grapes

Rose Plate

Coffee and Tea Service Served in Silver Coffee Pots

Chef David James Robinson
Executive Chef/Owner
Bezalel Gables
Fine Catering & Events
www.bezalelgables.com

Connect the Dots

I'm noticing a trend towards more color in home décor. One of my friends just painted the inside walls of her living room a brick red ­ and it works! Everything else in the room --­ the woodwork, the view from the windows, her artwork --- just pops now.

I had fun exploring ways to add more color to the home when I was researching the polka dots feature that's in the April issue of Hudson Valley Connoisseur. I had wanted to include polka dots in the magazine for a while, and when I went around to local shops and boutiques to do some research, I found last year's trend toward earth-tone dots has staying power and has also evolved into a brighter palette.

If I fall in love with every product I want to feature in the magazine, I'm going to have to find a second job or inherit some mad money. The silk pillows at Carreras in Rhinebeck. might be the first step towards my having to check out the Help Wanted ads. The raw silk pillows have hand-painted polka dots in rich fruit and chocolate colors.

They would just look SO GOOD on my black sofa.

Shop Local

I'm a big supporter of the "Shop Local" concept. Buying local food, especially, is a big deal to me. I'm a co-leader of Slow Food Hudson Valley and we've been talking recently about the 100-Mile Diet. That's a movement where people try to keep their food purchases to items produced within 100-miles of their homes, or the places they visit.

As someone who REALLY likes her coffee, I find that some aspects of the 100-Mile Diet won't work for me (unless I move to Hawaii ... hmmmm.) But I do try to buy coffee that's shade-grown (no rainforests chopped down) and Fair-Trade. Not 100 miles from home -- but good enough. I feel life is all about balance.

Recently I bought some organic, locally grown AND locally ground cornmeal from Don Lewis of Wild Hive Farm Bakery in Dutchess County. This man does it all -- from growing the grain to making the bread -- and he makes some wonderful grain products. I bought the cornmeal at Sprout Creek Farm's market in Poughkeepsie but I've seen Don's stuff for sale at the Adams farm markets too.

I like that in the Hudson Valley I can buy local produce at farmers markets, at farm stands and at stores such as Adams and even the local Hannaford supermarket. But joining a CSA, to me, really shows support for local farmers. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, CSA sales to community members who have provided the farmer with working capital in advance mean that growers receive better prices for their crops, gain some financial security, and are relieved of much of the burden of marketing.

And I’d rather support Hudson Valley farmers whenever I can than those in Chile or China (where a lot of the produce sold in the USA comes from).

Why Eat Local? 13 Lucky Reasons

Good Food, Good Idea

It’s time to sign up for a CSA. CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture, and it’s basically like joining a purchasing club at a local farm. The membership fee helps the farmer with his or her advance costs. In return, members share the farm’s fresh produce throughout the growing season (usually through weekly drop-off or pick-ups).

I’m trying to decide between joining a CSA near where I work (to make it easier to pick up produce) and one in northern Dutchess where I live (because I like to support my local businesses.) In any case, CSA membership is a high priority this year, partly because I no longer have the time to maintain a vegetable garden but mostly because I just think it’s a good idea.

Local CSA programs include The Poughkeepsie Farm Project, Hearty Roots in Tivoli,and Phillies Bridge Farm Project in New Paltz. For a CSA list that is searchable by zip code, visit www.localharvest.org/csa